Friday, December 4, 2009
Monday, August 17, 2009
"Who He Is"... Odub and Misty Murphy, featuring John Bachar on sax.
To download the song: Who He Is, featuring Misty Murphy and John Bachar.
Friday, July 17, 2009
Lander, Wyoming and Cowboy Poems
I'm in the middle of the short, hectic space where I'm not yet completely unpacked from my Lander, Wyoming trip, but I have to leave for Salt Lake and the OR Trade Show in 2 days. So much to get done... so little motivation. Frankly, I just want to sit on my ass for a few minutes.
So... Lander. Amazing. Maybe the greatest small town anywhere, surrounded by incredible climbing, and inhabited by the nicest people anywhere (and hottest women). I hope you don't believe me, because when I go back, again and again, I'd love for it to not be overrun with horny climber guys. Oh yeah... it won't... the grades are relatively stiff.
Thanks to Lindsay Nohls for making the ICF another great event, and thanks to the entire Skinner Family for their amazing hospitality. I had an incredible time, and will most certainly be back more often than I counted on.
To honor the Lander locals, who treated me so well last year, I wrote a cowboy poem to perform at the festival. To write the poem I used 65 route names from the local guidebook.
It took me a few days to get really used to the limestone there, focusing mostly on Sinks Canyon, which I had neglected to visit last year. Once I hit my stride there, I fell in love with the stone. I matched my hardest onsight (12d), and managed to redpoint a 13b before I had to start taking care of my festival duties.
Strangely, climbing wasn't the most memorable part of the trip. This time it was, by far, the people. I got to know the Skinner family much better, and they are truly an incredible group of people. South Africa '11?? Yes, count me in.
Lowering from Cartoon Graveyard 12d, Photo by Joe Kinder
Monday, June 15, 2009
Touched.
Last week, the search for Micah's body, somewhere in the mountains of China, was called off. The search party had found and identified the bodies of his two companions, Wade Johnson and Jonny Copp. Up to that point, everyone had hoped beyond hope that he'd be found, somehow alive. I think that for most, it took a few days to really sink in.
I only met Jonny once, but it was instantly obvious that he was a guy you WANTED to know. I never met Wade, but I knew his work, which will always be a great, lasting tribute to how he lived his life.
These three have touched, inspired, and will be sorely missed by the climbing community they dedicated their lives to. And they'll never be forgotten.
Below is a segment from "The Sharp End", which features Jonny and Micah, and was associate produced by Wade for Sender Films. It doesn't get anymore badass than these guys...
Micah Dash and Johnny Copp segment of "The Sharp End" from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Perfect Rendezvous
I just got home from emceeing the New River Rendezvous, and couldn't be more happy with the way everything turned out. The weathermen called for rain... and rain it did. But not enough to stop the climbing, and not nearly enough to stop the party.
The rain hit just in time for the tug-o-war, and after I called Lynn Hill out of the crowd to step up and compete, I realized another guy was needed. Lynn and I had a stare down, and true to form, Team Lynn Hill kicked our ass, though the final win went to the Mountain Hardwear team of Pat Goodman, Janet Bergman, and Freddie Wilkinson. Check out Janets blog for videos of the tug-o-war.
As soon as the tug-o-war wrapped up, the competitors for the sumo pad comp were taped up. Highlight was the ladies comp.... the stamina! Absolutely amazing. In this photo I'm spinning winner Neysa Dominguez in circles... getting her dizzy before more slamming.
Up next: Dyno comp. With the help of Lydia on the time and Karen taking score, emceeing was easy. The format this year was much better than years past, with the finalists given 2 minutes to complete all the dynos they could. High flying action... and again, the ladies KILLED it. Seriously, the boys need to step their game up!
And then the band. Holy hell. Freekbass from Cincy destroyed all notions of what a dance party was. This was by far the most rockin the dance floor has EVER been. Strangely enough, some climbers actually have rhythm.
All in all, big gigantic thanks to everybody who helped out... organizers, volunteers, sponsors, competitors, and partygoers.
With southern strong women Whitney Boland and Kate Reece-McGinnis.
After the Rendezvous was wrapped up, I got some great climbing and chilling time in with an incredible friend of mine. A few hard sends (for all involved), wine, some rearranged patio furniture (from all over Fayetteville at 2am), and more sending, and the trip was complete.
Headed home, just to head back out... to the Red with old friend Angie Payne. More on that, and photos of the last week to come later...
Friday, May 8, 2009
Monsters DO exist. Free new song...
Theres alot on the plate right now. A. Lot. Expect some rapid fire posts for the next few weeks to make up for the lack of recent posts. I'll be headed to the New River Rendezvous in a few days... and CAN'T WAIT!
However, lets get to business here. Three words. Herakleia. Float. Savgi.
Herakleia is the name of Mike Calls newest film, one of discovery and adventure, set in Turkey.
Float is the name of the album Misty Murphy and I are nearing completion on, to be released in July.
Savgi. Turkish for "love", and the name of the song you're about to download and blow your mind and speakers with.
Mike Call contacted Misty and I about a song for his movie, Herakleia. I toyed with some turkish instrument samples, and quickly came up with a minimalistic beat. I sent it to Misty, and was wowed upon its return. I had no idea what she'd do with it... but she nailed it. She learned a turkish love poem... in turkish... and sang it over my beat. All I could do was add a short 8 bar verse, resequence a few things, and it was ready. Quick, easy, and HOT.
Hi Fi Stream of "Savgi".
Free download of "Savgi".
You can get your copy of Herakleia at Momentum Video Magazine.
For a review of the film, Check out Straight Outta Bedlam.
More to come soon. Float, the album, is shapin up nice. Maybe, just maybe, you'll get another sneak listen in a few weeks...
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
DPM #4. Ode to the Haters.
DPM #4 has been posted online, and is currently on its way to a gym or shop near you, if its not already there.
In this issue, I started with the news, like usual, but just couldn't do it. I've seen so much online hate toward some good cats, like Kinder, Kehl, and Sierzant, that I had to speak up. I have my fair share of haters, and believe me, I love it. Without them, I'd have stopped rappin about climbing a LONG time ago. Go check it HERE.
Read the Sonnie Trotter interview on my page while you're listening... then go visit his blog. Its for sure one of the best around. And don't miss the great photo gallery from Keith Ladzinski!
Monday, April 6, 2009
Across the pond...
I was recently interviewed by a writer from the UK named Sarah Stirling. She contacted me about doing a piece for ukclimbing.com, a great site that I had visited often to pin down the news and goings on across the pond.
I jumped at the chance for the interview, even though I know that there are more than a few people who would jump at the chance to make me look ridiculous (well, more ridiculous than I make myself look). Fact is, I figured that if I'm gonna talk the talk, I may as well walk the walk. If she wanted to take shots at me, I'd be all for it.
We met up online, and she was extremely prepared... bringing up things I'd nearly forgotten about! This girl had done her homework, and that made for an incredibly fun interview, as we breached all sorts of subjects, and worked our way through what makes me tick.
I just saw the finished product, and I'm extremely happy with all of it. Sarah's interview and commentary was great, and Mick Ryan did an incredible job with the layout of it.
You can check out the interview HERE.
Be sure to check out the sidebar about Tom Patey! I'm pretty psyched on learning more about that guy!
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Coach Knows Best (or does he?)
Anne Skidmore, an incredibly talented photographer from New Hampshire, and crew, had come to the Red in search of steeper rock. Anne wanted to shoot photos while down, and I was happy to play tour guide. Armed with years of paying no attention to the weathermen, we were able to transform 3 drizzly days into some of the most fun cragging I've done in a while. Dry rock, dry climbing, soaked ropes and damp belayers. Throw in a few comical redneck gumbies (who may very well someday be the next Kauk and Bachar), and it turned out to be a golden weekend.
On day 3 we headed to The Sanctuary, an incredible wall of mostly hard 12's and 13's, to shoot Jesus Wept, a classic 12d. I bolt to bolted to warm up and hang the draws, and settled in for the belay while Yasmeen went to work, figuring out the moves on what would be her hardest route to date. The routes 3rd crux is a devious little pocket sequence, which can be approached two distinct ways: girl way and boy way. I opt for the girl way, backstepping and flagging so that I'm climbing static and in control, and relayed that beta to Yasi. While trying to work out the subtleties in body position to make the moves the girl way, she busted through the more powerful, boy way, to clip the draw above, and lowered to try it my way a few more times. I could see that it just wasn't fitting her, so I suggested she try the deadpoint again, and she reverted back to the boy way, sticking the move every attempt (a move I've never stuck).
6 or 8 months ago I'm not sure I'd have made that suggestion, believing that my most efficient way was THE most efficient way. Recently though, I've watched my daughter ignore my beta and come up with her own way, only to be more proud of her for figuring it out even with me telling her there was a better way. Different bodies fit into the moves of these puzzles differently, and as a coach/trainer/whatever, all I can do is make suggestions based on what I know of THAT climber. Its up to them to decide if my way works, or if they were right to begin with.
Yasi tied in for her 2nd go, with Anne hanging above shooting photos. Barely sticking the first crux move, she held it together and moved on to the first rest. In the 2nd crux, she changed her beta on the fly, opting for a balancey layback rather than a powerful lockoff, and pulled through to the big rest. We've trained and trained and trained recovery, so we both knew she had a good chance of sending, as she'd basically get to the 3rd crux, 75 feet up, mostly fresh. Throwing the more powerful deadpoint, screaming like a kung fu master, and with shouts of encouragement from across the valley, Yasmeen reeled in the little pocket, pulled to the jug, and finished off her hardest send yet... in only 2 tries. Its gonna be a good year.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Good Footwork Is SOOO Yesterday...
ANYWAY... while I was there watching 84 or so young humans who don't have the first clue who John Gill or Ron Kauk are, more or less Muir or Salathe, I found myself paying attention. Ok, maybe not. I didn't actually need to pay attention to notice the complete lack of footwork and body positioning in todays young climbers. "Complete" might be an exaggeration. There were at least 6 climbers there who had a clue.
Now, I help train several people, including my 11 year old daughter. I push footwork and balanced body positions like a steroid dealer in a major league baseball locker room. I yell more about feet than anything else, except maybe people saying "Take!" on redpoint attempts. In fact, I'd be willing to say that my 11 year old, and a guy I'm training who's been climbing less than a year, have better footwork than 90% of the kids in this comp. These kids weren't all 12... many were 16-18.
I saw the same scenario over and over and over... strong kid with steel tendons ignores a backstep, stays frontal, and throws to a crimp. He manages to stick it, control the swing he created because his foot was off the wall long before he hit the handhold, even though the footchip is at about knee level. He nearly kicks a hole in the wall, apparently trying to knock the foothold off the wall in retaliation for it not letting him stand on it. Then, unarmed with the knowledge of how to match feet, flag, and reach while in control, He throws the OPPOSITE way that he's pushing, doing a tasmanian spin off the jug he just did a 2 foot dyno to. I admire the desire to make things more difficult while in the gym... but this is a little ridiculous.
I blame it 100% on the "coaches" (and I use that word VERY lightly). I heard so many coaches say "NICE!! Great job!", or "Way to go for it!". Bullshit. "Terrible! That sucked!". "Way to look like you were having convulsions in the air!" "Nice job denigrating the entire beauty of this sport!" I mean, I realize that some of these kids are 9 or 10... and in those cases the coaches should be flogged. Now, I don't yell at my daughter that way... because I don't need to. I taught her early on to stand on small feet. Not to constantly readjust feet. She learned balance, how to match, how to backstep, how to dropknee. Dropknee? Yes, its still legal. However, you wouldn't know it to watch a youth comp.
Kaitlynn won today, pretty handily. She won't win them all, and she's cool with that. She's proud of where she's at... and so am I. What I'm most proud of is that the skills she's displaying will make her a better rockclimber... indoors, outdoors, wherever... and one that looks like she knows what she's doing. If the rest of these kids continue to listen to their "coaches", then Kaitlynn will look even better.
And I swear to Jim Bridwell, if I ever hear another 12 year old kid say "So how hard do you climb?", I'll.....
Friday, March 6, 2009
Ladies and Gentlemen, THIS is your National Champion. An interview with Alex Johnson
We'll start with the basics: Please state your name, age, and hometown(s) for the record.
Alex Johnson, 19,
You’re only 19? Shit, I feel old. You’re a Midwest girl, but you're in Colorado now. Can we still claim you, or have you become one of "them"?
I am, and will always be, from
You shocked everyone by winning the Vail World Cup Comp, and continued your roll at this year’s Nationals. Do you buy your steroids from pro baseball players, or do you just get them off the mean streets of
So why bouldering? Can we expect you to do some "real" hard climbing in the future?
Bouldering because I am afraid of lead falling. But I am not against sport! There’s just more of an abundance of boulders in
Which female climber has influenced you the most?
Lately it’s been Kelly and Lisa. I grew up climbing with guys, though. Shout out to Brian Camp.
You coach youth climbers, right? Which young female climbers do you see with the most potential?
Past tense on coached, unfortunately. The kids I worked with are Minnesota-bred. There are a bunch of strong kids in MN! Some of them were at the Youth Nationals. Everyone better watch out.
You're a role model now. There’s a young male climber, who's pretty damn strong, named Alex Johnson, also from the
Do you really think I’m a role model? I’m pretty sure he’s from
Of course you’re a role model… take your recent trip to Bishop as an example. Besides a couple of V9 flashes, you made impressive sends of "Evilution" (to the lip- V10), and "Mystery" (V12), which you called your hardest yet. A little birdie told me it wasn't all about the climbing while in Bishop.... care to elaborate?
I’ll pass on the elaborating for now, but this birdie seems to have been getting around! Thanks on the props, and I’m returning to Bishop March 12th.
V13. What does it mean to you... and when will we see it go down?
Hard As Shit; and when Puccio does Nothing but Sunshine.
I've been trying like hell in my songs to create a rivalry between you and Alex Puccio. What would it take to get you two to wrestle or kickbox or something? Who would win?
Wo pony, speak of the devil! I would get my ass kicked, I’m a horrible fighter.
What we all really want to know is... have you ever kissed a girl? Tongue?
Have not, and probably never will, sorry. Something about girls grosses me out. No offense to any girls.
I’m not grossed out by girls. I've heard you don't like ice cream. You're aware that means you have an unfair advantage over the rest of us when it comes to strength/weight ratio, right? What are your vices?
You mean besides the unfair advantage I constantly hear about by being taller than everyone else? I should be unstoppable now! Ice cream hurts my teeth. I have a horrible addiction to Taco Bell and Cherry Coke. I may need an intervention soon.
Mmm…. Meximelts. So you're also a badass pole vaulter. I was a pole vaulter! Think you could get me a date with your teammate who won the Conference Meet?
I WAS a pole vaulter, and not really a badass one. I think you may have mistaken me for my teammate and one of my best friends, Lauren, who is currently single. She’ll be in Vail for the World Cup, I’ll introduce you.
You’d be my new favorite person. So who's your favorite middle aged white climbing rapper? Your answer to this question will determine how I make you look in this interview...
Well you of course! Silly. Have you met Dan Dewell? MC Boondoggle! Maybe you could do a duet. Odub featuring Boondoggle!
I’m down. Hook it up. One thing though…George Michaels? I mean.... George Michaels??? Please explain yourself before I show this video....
One of the most amazing songs to sing and dance along with. You can’t disagree. Come on, I’m my mother’s daughter, I grew up with all that kind of music! So fantastic.
Friday, February 20, 2009
INTUIT10N = inspiration
If you're a climber, its nearly impossible that you haven't seen, and probably admired, the work of the creative force that is Jeremy Collins. His images have brought visual truth to the pages of Rock and Ice, Climbing, Alpinist, Trail Runner, and even as far removed from the outdoors as The Wall Street Journal. His recently released book, "INTUIT10N : a decade of work" landed on my doorstep several weeks ago, and I've been trying like hell to figure a way to put into words what I experienced upon first turning its pages. I still haven't come up with how to do it... but I'm going to try.
I remember when I first realized the genius behind Jeremy's work. It was in a magazine article concerning the ethics of bolting, and the 3 or so images that accompanied the written piece did far more for me than the words. I haven't a clue what that article said, but i remember in detail the painted images I saw. Particularly striking was the hairless figure, with the obvious back of a climber, standing in front of a blood red, barren wilderness landscape. The figures face was in shadow, looking downward, unsure of its position or place in the world. Down the figures spine is a line of bolts and hangers. I'll never forget what that painting said to me.
I tried to flip thru the pages of INTUIT10N, but I couldn't. I would only get a few pages deep, and another image would stop me in my tracks, and leave me lingering, losing track of time. All in all, it must have taken 2 weeks to get through all the images, and I still have the feeling that I could learn twice as much if I'd start again from the front cover.
INTUIT10N is dedicated to not only the images, but also the process. Throughout the book you'll find essays by John Long, Steph Davis, Alison Osius, Matt Samet, and many other influential climber/writers who have felt the power of Jeremy's work. Its full color, 211 pages are worth far more than you'll pay.
I've always considered my own music to be art. Much of it is tongue in cheek, and much of it is serious. Jeremy effortlessly weaves back and forth between humor and bold faced message. I admire and respect him for that feat. INTUIT10N now sits in my studio, beside my turntable, so that when I'm in the need for inspiration, it'll always be within my reach.
Please check out Jeremy Collins' website at www.jercollins.com , and pick up INTUIT10N at http://www.lulu.com/content/5090000/. You won't be disappointed.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Quiet Please!!
As my man Randy Leavitt would say, "Quiet Please!!". The new issue of Deadpoint Magazine is on the stands (for free!) and on the web. www.deadpointmag.com Click on "Current Issue" and flip through. Its more than just a mag... you get videos that go with the stories and articles, and a song to go with my column.
In this issue I dish on just about everything... Lynn Hill, Andy Raether, Joe Kinder, Sharma, P-Rob, and even the newly single hottest of the hot climbing women. You don't wanna miss this one!
Also, you can now go to my music page at www.odubmusic.com and download the past DPM songs.
While you're at DPM, be sure to check out the video of Kinder on the 1st ascent of Southern Comfort Right, shortly after making the 2nd ascent of the direct finish, right here in the Dirtee Dirtee!
And don't miss Kehl's Crypt... as always, creative as hell, and bound to get you psyched (and prepared) for highballing!
We ain't fuckin around 'round here!
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Tendonitis. Shit.
Two weeks ago I woke up with a strange dull pain in the back of my hand. Felt like a break, but not as severe. Same type of pressure. I figured it'd go away. Two days later it was obvious it wasn't gonna just disappear, so I did what everyone else would have done... I started training again. By the time I left for St. George, my endurance had been cut in half. At least. After a few bolts of jugs, my right arm would be wooden. Shit.
Finally I went to a doctor. Thats a big step for me. He says its a bad case of extensor tendonitis. Rest is my only option. So, again, I did the obvious. Two more days of climbing. I did manage to redpoint a 12a (which felt like 13b with my wooden claw), and fall all over Joe Six Pack, a techy Randy Leavitt 13a that I'll certainly come back for. Its bound to be a little more doable with two hands.
At any rate, I'm resting. 2 weeks. Maybe 3. Maybe a month. Till its better. If I can.
In the meantime, heres a video of Misty, drunk, freestyling about my misfortune. Sorry about the lighting and shoddy camera work. I'd had too much Rogue Ale and was just testing the video function on my new point and shoot. Regardless, its more than worth it. Enjoy!
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
In Southern Utah, its not all 3.2%.
Beer. Misty and I might have maybe gone to somewhere something like Nevada and sorta bought beer, or a beer like product, and kinda brought it back into the Mormon state. Maybe. I think.
At any rate, it did its job. Joining us for the drunken festivities were Misty's man toy, Lib Narho, the infamous John "Verm" Sherman, and his lady friend, Cindy. Misty's friend Jen also rolled through, and turned out to be REALLY funny.
Somehow Verm was psyched to record his first rap, so we descended into the studio and let loose. When the song is mixed and done... you'll hear it. OH MY. You have no idea...
However, I thought Verm was a drinking pro. Seems that shortly after his turn on the mic he crossed the line, and passed out on the couch. Verm, you missed out, but I got it on tape so you can see it when you finally come to...
Misty breakin it down... and The Verm, missin it.
Friday, January 23, 2009
DELAYED!
Have you ever noticed that when you're alone in a public place, for any length of time, that women who wouldn't normally warrant a second glance, are suddenly smokin hot? Maybe I just harbor some airport fantasy that I'm not consciously aware of, but I swear I've looked longingly at 14 different women in the past 10 minutes.
Make that 15. I'm suprised her daughter let her out of the house dressed that way.
At least every 3rd woman who passes by has my attention. I've been here a few hours already, so of course I've already decided on a few "regulars". There's the extremely distraught Daddys Money Ski Bunny who yelled at her mother on her iPhone that she "could never sleep at a time like this". Its a crisis, I imagine. The powder may completely melt before she makes it to Utah. Regardless, I'm positive she would make beautiful babies.
Then theres "Blue Dress". In fact, I could say those 2 words to any male (or female) within 20 gates of my seat, and they'd know who I mean. I first saw her in the food court. She smiled at me in between bites of some cubed potato product smothered in ketchup. I'm suprised I caught the smile, as I was sure my gaze was fixed on the plunging neckline of her dress. Evening gown. Electric blue. Its 9am at the airport lady. Oh well. Thanks for that.
And now the mom that just walked by a few minutes ago. She's been by 4 more times. She's tugging along a cute little curly haired girl (proof positive that she makes beautiful babies) with one hand, and pulling some $300 designer bag that I couldn't possibly fit my ipod into with her other. I'm going with the theory that she makes her money herself, because I'm certainly in the market for a sugar momma. She said hello.... and she has that southern drawl that melts me. Of course, the rock on her finger is at least 2 pitches tall. I'll just pretend I don't see that...
In a few hours I'll (hopefully) make it to SLC, and it'll be the same deal all over again. A convention center filled with hot, athletic women who like to get dirty, but that'll be another blog altogether.
For now, I'm just excited to see who I'm sitting next to on the plane...
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Oh Nine
At any rate, '08 was a good year. Every year we all meet a million new people, and maybe 3 of those we'll remember in the distant future for the impact they've made on our lives. I have at least 3 of those this year. They may or may not know that things they've done, or things they've said, have helped me make profound choices that I'm sure I won't regret. One is a beautiful voice and all around creative woman whose wit and artistry amaze me. One is an incredibly talented writer with leave you speechless looks who can be as shockingly abrasive as one of the guys, though twice as intelligent. The third is one of the strongest women I've met, and you can see it in the way she raises her children, hear it in the way she speaks of her life, and learn it just from watching her eyes dance. So to Misty, Lydia, and Amy.... Thank you, and I hope that I can somehow do for you what you've done for me.
NOW... it wouldn't be a new year if it didn't have a party! In this case, a party at Rocktown, GA, with nearly the entire Red River Gorge, half of Indianapolis, and Frank from the Gunks. Throw in a chainsaw, a giant fire, and perfect sandstone boulders, and you've got yourself a regular hoedown!