I've given up. I tried to ignore it. I tried to climb through it. Hell, I even tried to rest (which didn't actually happen). Now my hand is being forced. Literally.
Two weeks ago I woke up with a strange dull pain in the back of my hand. Felt like a break, but not as severe. Same type of pressure. I figured it'd go away. Two days later it was obvious it wasn't gonna just disappear, so I did what everyone else would have done... I started training again. By the time I left for St. George, my endurance had been cut in half. At least. After a few bolts of jugs, my right arm would be wooden. Shit.
Finally I went to a doctor. Thats a big step for me. He says its a bad case of extensor tendonitis. Rest is my only option. So, again, I did the obvious. Two more days of climbing. I did manage to redpoint a 12a (which felt like 13b with my wooden claw), and fall all over Joe Six Pack, a techy Randy Leavitt 13a that I'll certainly come back for. Its bound to be a little more doable with two hands.
At any rate, I'm resting. 2 weeks. Maybe 3. Maybe a month. Till its better. If I can.
In the meantime, heres a video of Misty, drunk, freestyling about my misfortune. Sorry about the lighting and shoddy camera work. I'd had too much Rogue Ale and was just testing the video function on my new point and shoot. Regardless, its more than worth it. Enjoy!
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
In Southern Utah, its not all 3.2%.
I'm down in St. George, at Misty Murphy's house for the week. We escaped SLC and the OR tradeshow just in time. A travel killing snowstorm hit just after we headed south for sunshine and good rock. Day 1 we climbed at VRG, and well, honestly, my hand sucks. My endurance has been halved, so I finally went to see a doc. Apparently its just a bad case of extensor tendonitis. I'm tryin to be nice to it, but its tough with so much rock to climb, unless you have beer.
Beer. Misty and I might have maybe gone to somewhere something like Nevada and sorta bought beer, or a beer like product, and kinda brought it back into the Mormon state. Maybe. I think.
At any rate, it did its job. Joining us for the drunken festivities were Misty's man toy, Lib Narho, the infamous John "Verm" Sherman, and his lady friend, Cindy. Misty's friend Jen also rolled through, and turned out to be REALLY funny.
Somehow Verm was psyched to record his first rap, so we descended into the studio and let loose. When the song is mixed and done... you'll hear it. OH MY. You have no idea...
However, I thought Verm was a drinking pro. Seems that shortly after his turn on the mic he crossed the line, and passed out on the couch. Verm, you missed out, but I got it on tape so you can see it when you finally come to...
Misty breakin it down... and The Verm, missin it.
Beer. Misty and I might have maybe gone to somewhere something like Nevada and sorta bought beer, or a beer like product, and kinda brought it back into the Mormon state. Maybe. I think.
At any rate, it did its job. Joining us for the drunken festivities were Misty's man toy, Lib Narho, the infamous John "Verm" Sherman, and his lady friend, Cindy. Misty's friend Jen also rolled through, and turned out to be REALLY funny.
Somehow Verm was psyched to record his first rap, so we descended into the studio and let loose. When the song is mixed and done... you'll hear it. OH MY. You have no idea...
However, I thought Verm was a drinking pro. Seems that shortly after his turn on the mic he crossed the line, and passed out on the couch. Verm, you missed out, but I got it on tape so you can see it when you finally come to...
Misty breakin it down... and The Verm, missin it.
Friday, January 23, 2009
DELAYED!
I didn't get to bed last night until 1am, which left me with 2.5 hours of sleep before I had to beat my alarm clock into submission and drive 1.5 hours to the airport. I took a quick flight to Memphis, to lay over for an hour before heading to my final destination of Salt Lake, for the Winter OR show. However, my hour layover became 4 hours, as our plane is grounded at LaGuardia. Shit. It really wouldn't be so bad, except I have to sit here surrounded by frantic people who are yelling into their cell phones, apparently hoping that someone will pull a new plane and crew out of their ass. I'm not gonna sweat it though... I've found a pleasant side effect to this waiting game.
Have you ever noticed that when you're alone in a public place, for any length of time, that women who wouldn't normally warrant a second glance, are suddenly smokin hot? Maybe I just harbor some airport fantasy that I'm not consciously aware of, but I swear I've looked longingly at 14 different women in the past 10 minutes.
Make that 15. I'm suprised her daughter let her out of the house dressed that way.
At least every 3rd woman who passes by has my attention. I've been here a few hours already, so of course I've already decided on a few "regulars". There's the extremely distraught Daddys Money Ski Bunny who yelled at her mother on her iPhone that she "could never sleep at a time like this". Its a crisis, I imagine. The powder may completely melt before she makes it to Utah. Regardless, I'm positive she would make beautiful babies.
Then theres "Blue Dress". In fact, I could say those 2 words to any male (or female) within 20 gates of my seat, and they'd know who I mean. I first saw her in the food court. She smiled at me in between bites of some cubed potato product smothered in ketchup. I'm suprised I caught the smile, as I was sure my gaze was fixed on the plunging neckline of her dress. Evening gown. Electric blue. Its 9am at the airport lady. Oh well. Thanks for that.
And now the mom that just walked by a few minutes ago. She's been by 4 more times. She's tugging along a cute little curly haired girl (proof positive that she makes beautiful babies) with one hand, and pulling some $300 designer bag that I couldn't possibly fit my ipod into with her other. I'm going with the theory that she makes her money herself, because I'm certainly in the market for a sugar momma. She said hello.... and she has that southern drawl that melts me. Of course, the rock on her finger is at least 2 pitches tall. I'll just pretend I don't see that...
In a few hours I'll (hopefully) make it to SLC, and it'll be the same deal all over again. A convention center filled with hot, athletic women who like to get dirty, but that'll be another blog altogether.
For now, I'm just excited to see who I'm sitting next to on the plane...
Have you ever noticed that when you're alone in a public place, for any length of time, that women who wouldn't normally warrant a second glance, are suddenly smokin hot? Maybe I just harbor some airport fantasy that I'm not consciously aware of, but I swear I've looked longingly at 14 different women in the past 10 minutes.
Make that 15. I'm suprised her daughter let her out of the house dressed that way.
At least every 3rd woman who passes by has my attention. I've been here a few hours already, so of course I've already decided on a few "regulars". There's the extremely distraught Daddys Money Ski Bunny who yelled at her mother on her iPhone that she "could never sleep at a time like this". Its a crisis, I imagine. The powder may completely melt before she makes it to Utah. Regardless, I'm positive she would make beautiful babies.
Then theres "Blue Dress". In fact, I could say those 2 words to any male (or female) within 20 gates of my seat, and they'd know who I mean. I first saw her in the food court. She smiled at me in between bites of some cubed potato product smothered in ketchup. I'm suprised I caught the smile, as I was sure my gaze was fixed on the plunging neckline of her dress. Evening gown. Electric blue. Its 9am at the airport lady. Oh well. Thanks for that.
And now the mom that just walked by a few minutes ago. She's been by 4 more times. She's tugging along a cute little curly haired girl (proof positive that she makes beautiful babies) with one hand, and pulling some $300 designer bag that I couldn't possibly fit my ipod into with her other. I'm going with the theory that she makes her money herself, because I'm certainly in the market for a sugar momma. She said hello.... and she has that southern drawl that melts me. Of course, the rock on her finger is at least 2 pitches tall. I'll just pretend I don't see that...
In a few hours I'll (hopefully) make it to SLC, and it'll be the same deal all over again. A convention center filled with hot, athletic women who like to get dirty, but that'll be another blog altogether.
For now, I'm just excited to see who I'm sitting next to on the plane...
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Oh Nine
Its hard to believe its been a year since we rang in '08. I've dated girls who spend longer on their hair. Actually, I'll probably date more of those girls, so I'll leave that one alone.
At any rate, '08 was a good year. Every year we all meet a million new people, and maybe 3 of those we'll remember in the distant future for the impact they've made on our lives. I have at least 3 of those this year. They may or may not know that things they've done, or things they've said, have helped me make profound choices that I'm sure I won't regret. One is a beautiful voice and all around creative woman whose wit and artistry amaze me. One is an incredibly talented writer with leave you speechless looks who can be as shockingly abrasive as one of the guys, though twice as intelligent. The third is one of the strongest women I've met, and you can see it in the way she raises her children, hear it in the way she speaks of her life, and learn it just from watching her eyes dance. So to Misty, Lydia, and Amy.... Thank you, and I hope that I can somehow do for you what you've done for me.
NOW... it wouldn't be a new year if it didn't have a party! In this case, a party at Rocktown, GA, with nearly the entire Red River Gorge, half of Indianapolis, and Frank from the Gunks. Throw in a chainsaw, a giant fire, and perfect sandstone boulders, and you've got yourself a regular hoedown!
At any rate, '08 was a good year. Every year we all meet a million new people, and maybe 3 of those we'll remember in the distant future for the impact they've made on our lives. I have at least 3 of those this year. They may or may not know that things they've done, or things they've said, have helped me make profound choices that I'm sure I won't regret. One is a beautiful voice and all around creative woman whose wit and artistry amaze me. One is an incredibly talented writer with leave you speechless looks who can be as shockingly abrasive as one of the guys, though twice as intelligent. The third is one of the strongest women I've met, and you can see it in the way she raises her children, hear it in the way she speaks of her life, and learn it just from watching her eyes dance. So to Misty, Lydia, and Amy.... Thank you, and I hope that I can somehow do for you what you've done for me.
NOW... it wouldn't be a new year if it didn't have a party! In this case, a party at Rocktown, GA, with nearly the entire Red River Gorge, half of Indianapolis, and Frank from the Gunks. Throw in a chainsaw, a giant fire, and perfect sandstone boulders, and you've got yourself a regular hoedown!
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