Tuesday, June 10, 2008



I've been wearing Evolv climbing shoes (Predators) for several months now, and quickly decided they are the best shoes I've ever stuffed my feet into. That makes it even more exciting for me to become a part of their athlete roster! Joining Team Evolv means that I'll be joining with some of the best climbers on the planet... Sharma, Rands, Lindner... to wear and promote shoes made by an incredible company. Not only are they the greenest climbing shoe company on the market, but they go out of their way to be a force in the community. My kind of people. They're sending me the new "Optimus Prime", which I can't wait to put to rock...

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Gettin started...


I've spent the last year and a half getting to know sport climbing, training, and gyms. Things that, in my years as a traddie, I wasn't familiar with. I guess a 3 year layoff changes your perspective...
The gym training has been incredible. Sport climbing is a complex and beautiful dance, and I like to think I'm good at it. 13a's are coming easier and easier, and I've just started work on my first 13b's... Elephant Man and Shiva... both in the Red.

Got on Elephant Man after sending Tuskan Raider (12d), which shares the first bolt. Its full on from bolt 2 to bolt 6... then a bad stance... and another bolt of hard moves, followed by a 12a headwall. Power endurance at its finest.

Shiva is the opposite. I tried it after a 2nd go ascent of Tapeworm (12d pictured at right)... its neighbor. Shiva is steep 12a to a hard V7ish boulder problem, to more steep jugs. Should be fun to work on...


Where to start?? I've recently started a new project... one I'm extra psyched on. I'm working with an incredibly talented singer/songwriter/musician/climber/hottie named Misty Murphy from Utah. Check her out at www.mistymurphy.com. We just released our first collaboration, entitled "Float", which is a remix of sorts of her song "35". "Float" is meant as a tribute to climbing legend Todd Skinner, a big influence in my climbing.

I've received several emails from friends and family of Todd, including from his niece Becca and his widow, Amy. It gives me chills that the people close to Todd are touched by our song. We'll be performing it in Todds hometown in July... I'm already nervous.

You can download "Float" here:


I have no complaints... none at all. Why is it that writing is better when there are complaints?? Work is good, money is good, life in general is, well... good. Just finished a great mural at work... Undersea theme in a room absolutely made for this mural. Is so much more fun to paint when it makes sense in the space...

My daughter, Kaitlynn, did her first lead climbs a few weekends ago! Led 3 more this past weekend. Only 10 years old. She'll be schoolin me in a few years, no doubt... I look forward to that, though. I asked her once how good she wanted to be at climbing... her immediate answer: "Better than you."

Won't be long...